Winter calls for richer scents

As winter wardrobes grow heavier, fragrance preferences shift as well. Thick coats and layered knits call for perfumes with greater depth, scents that can hold their presence in cold air and add warmth to the season.

Perfume behaves differently as temperatures drop. While spring favors soft florals and summer leans toward fresh citrus, autumn and winter demand richer compositions.

“Cold, dry air weakens a fragrance’s diffusion, and the sense of smell becomes less sensitive as olfactory receptors retreat in a natural protective response. As a result, lighter scents tend to disappear more quickly in winter,” said perfumer Jeon Aron.

To compensate, perfumers recommend bolder profiles built around smoky, woody and spicy notes. Ingredients such as musk, amber, oud, cardamom, frankincense, vetiver, vanilla, sandalwood and tobacco are particularly effective in colder months, developing slowly and lingering on skin and clothing.

One of winter’s most talked-about fragrances is Angel’s Share by Kilian, a sweet yet robust scent inspired by cognac aged in oak barrels. Built around oak absolute, cinnamon and tonka bean, with praline, vanilla and sandalwood beneath, the fragrance has gained renewed attention after K-pop star Karina of aespa cited it as a personal favorite, adding to its reputation as a statement winter scent rather than a fleeting trend.

For a subtler take on seasonal warmth, Byredo’s Eleventh Hour offers a refined blend of bergamot, plum, rum and cashmere woods. Spicy but balanced, it evokes the comfort of a warm cup of tea rather than a roaring fire, making it an easy choice for everyday wear. Its restrained profile also makes it popular for scent layering, particularly with vanilla-based fragrances.

Those drawn to smoky compositions may gravitate toward Maison Margiela’s Replica By the Fireplace. Built around guaiac wood, clove oil and pink pepper, the fragrance leans heavily into smokiness, softened by vanilla and cashmere notes that recall roasted marshmallows and cozy evenings indoors.

A long-standing winter staple, Tom Ford’s Black Orchid continues to appeal with its dark, unisex blend of black truffle, orchid, patchouli, vanilla and plum. The result is a warm yet mysterious scent that bridges fruity and woody preferences.

Completing the lineup is Diptyque’s Orpheon, often described as festive and nostalgic. Juniper berry, cedarwood and tonka bean combine with jasmine to create a creamy, woody fragrance with a subtle floral lift.

In winter, fragrance becomes less about freshness and more about comfort and presence — an invisible layer that complements the season’s heavier style.