Haemok brings taste of Nagoya and Busan coast to Seoul’s Seochon

From the outside, Haemok’s Seochon location could be mistaken for a stark architectural experiment — a subdued concrete structure. But step through its doors, and a transformation unfolds. The atmosphere shifts to a cozy interior reminiscent of a Japanese countryside home. Warm yellow lighting bathes the wooden interior, where the long, communal tables immediately put diners at ease.

A central courtyard, or "jungjeong," draws in natural light, giving the dining space an expansive feel. Two floors accommodate diners. The ground level offers traditional Western-style seating, while the second floor features tatami-style seating for those seeking a more immersive experience. While the tatami area adds an authentic touch, first-time visitors may prefer the comfort of the tables on the first floor, especially during long dinners.

Originally founded in Busan and now expanded to Seoul, Haemok has become known for its Japanese cuisine and letting quality ingredients and classic methods speak for themselves.

The restaurant has earned a spot in the prestigious Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand Selection 2024 Busan. Haemok’s signature dish, hitsumabushi (40,000 won or $28.19), features pungcheon eel, considered one of the finest eel varieties available in Korea. In the kitchen, the eel is grilled three times over charcoal, brushed with a house-made soy-based glaze at each stage. The result is a caramelized, lightly crisped exterior that gives way to tender, flavorful flesh.

Served atop rice that has been gently cooked to retain both moisture and structure, the hitsumabushi is presented with traditional accompaniments: thinly sliced scallions, fresh perilla leaves, seaweed flakes and wasabi. The dish is designed to be enjoyed in three ways: first, on its own to savor the eel’s rich, smoky flavor; second, mixed with the accompaniments; and third, transformed into a comforting ochazuke by adding hot green tea broth provided on the side.

No matter the variation, the result is a deeply satisfying meal. And should the dish ever begin to feel overly rich, Haemok offers thoughtful side items to recalibrate the palate, notably a yuzu-ponzu seaweed salad and a small but impactful serving of clam jeotgal, a Korean-style salted and fermented seafood delicacy. The clam’s brininess and umami offer a jolt of contrast that keeps the meal lively to the final bite.

Before the main course, diners can start the meal with a house-poured Haemok sake (8,000 won), delicately infused with Korean ginseng to cleanse the palate. Its mild bitterness enhances the appetite.

As a side dish, the assorted tempura platter (13,000 won) is another highlight, featuring scallops, shrimp, pumpkin, eggplant and shishito peppers, each fried in a traditional Japanese batter that manages to stay crisp while preserving the delicate moisture inside. A variety of dipping sauces, including salt, citrusy yuzu paste and soy sauce, allow for a more personalized flavor experience.

This spring, Haemok introduced a seasonal showstopper: a wild sea urchin rice bowl (45,000 won). The uni, freshly harvested each morning by haenyeo, or traditional female divers, off the coast of Busan, is a rare treat — creamy, sweet and devoid of the fishy undertones that often plague lesser-quality urchin. Served over rice with a modest scattering of salmon roe, the bowl delivers a texture-forward experience that’s best enjoyed with a sheet of seaweed, a dab of wasabi and a dip in soy sauce. The combination mimics the flavor of uni gunkan sushi.

Each main course is served with a clam-based miso soup whose rich umami notes round out the meal without overwhelming it, acting as a cleanser.

Reservations are available only for groups of four or more, and same-day bookings are not available. While the restaurant tends to fill up during peak lunch and dinner hours, those visiting during off-hours will likely find a table.

For diners seeking a serene, elevated dining experience in the heart of Seoul’s historic Seochon district, Haemok offers a meal that lingers.