Subway Stories
The following is part of Seoul Subway Stories, a Korea Herald series exploring the subway stations and surrounding areas across the city. -- Ed.
A roughly five-minute walk from Exit No. 7 of Mullae Station on Seoul subway leads you to a village with two faces.
Greeting visitors first are the boisterous sounds of machinery and workers cutting and welding iron bars and slabs inside small factories and metal workshops.
But soon, one can hear jazz and classical music being played somewhere in the narrow alleyways tucked behind the industrial buildings. Vivid murals, statues and art galleries also wait to be discovered.
Dubbed the “Mullae Creative Village,” the little neighborhood is a hidden gem in Seoul, where artists and mechanics live in harmony.
From colorful signboards to graffiti and wall paintings on the shutters of ironworks, artists have made their mark in nearly every corner of the village.
Visitors can also find installation art pieces made of old metal here, including sculptures of a scarecrow, a giant hammer and a welding mask.
Old industrial structures given the touch of young artists is hip in Korea nowadays, a magnet for locals and tourists seeking Instagrammable spots in the capital city.
In the '70s and '80s, Mullae-dong was a thriving factory town that housed about 1,700 ironworks and metalsmiths that produced parts and materials for local manufacturers.
But after the arrival of the 21st century and the rise of China as the factory of the world, the town had lost much of its luster.
What revitalized the declining factory area was an influx of young artists and designers in the mid-2000s. Most of them came from nearby Hongdae and Daehangno in search of more affordable rent, and they began to use the deserted workshops as their art studios.
Later on, galleries and multipurpose cultural spaces moved in, further fueling Mullae’s rising profile as an art destination.
One such place is “Artfield Gallery,” which regularly holds exhibitions to introduce new regional artists, mostly specializing in oil paintings.
A city-funded arts incubation center set up in 2010 by the Seoul Foundation for Arts and Culture, “Seoul Art Space Mullae” hosts amateur and professional painters and musicians, offering them a space to hold exhibitions or performances at an affordable price range of 20,000 won-50,000 won ($14-$35) per day.
An Do-hyun is one of the most famous artists to have settled in here. He specializes in art installations and space directing.
Like many artists in Mullae-dong, he sometimes opens up his studio to the public for free viewing, adding artistic vibes to the ironworks street. When this reporter visited, his studio, repurposed from an abandoned old industrial building, had An’s works made of bronze and iron on display.
Village of craft designers
Handicraft shops are another charm of the town.
Artisans from different fields, including glass crafts, ceramics and leatherwork, not only sell their work, but they hold one-day classes for those who want to dabble in arts and crafts.
At one glass craft workshop “Maison de Verre,” visitors can take a glimpse of the world of stained glass by creating colored glass pieces, from sun catchers to nightlights, under the guidance of experienced artisans.
“Participants can learn the fundamentals of stained glass art through our one-day programs, such as basic techniques and design ideas,” said Lee Se-hee, one of the instructors, adding most participants are young couples in their 20s looking for fun and romantic dates on the weekends.
Industrial-style cafes and eateries
Mullae-dong’s past and present are conjoined in a plethora of trendy cafes and restaurants with industrial interior design.
The neighborhood’s narrow alleys are dotted with factories-turned-eateries featuring red brick pillars and exposed concrete walls.
Among the most popular spots for young visitors is “Rust Bakery,” a once disused ironwork factory converted into a modern-style bakery that offers classic pastries like croissants and scones.
Metal pendant ceiling lights and steel lamps bring a rustic charm, while weathered wood tables are placed against a cement concrete wall, offering visitors something more than just the run-of-the-mill cup of coffee.
Various industrial-style bars and diners with rooftop terraces that are located on the second or third floor of factory buildings that still house ironworks on the first floor are also a tourist hot spot, where people can enjoy a panoramic view of the town.
“Vendors here are known for their unique interior designs, which make full use of the legacy of ironworks. Visitors can feel the energetic mood of the factory zone at Mullae’s various eateries,” said Yoo Jong-hwan, 31, who works at an industrial, old-style pub called Old Mullae that is well-known for its fish and chips.
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