Just a few years ago, I was living quite comfortably in Ireland, working as an architect with no extreme hobbies or unusual ambitions.

These days I am living and working 9,000 kilometers away, spend my free time on frozen waterfalls and am soon to start training for my second Ice Climbing World Cup.

In the economic downturn of the late 2000s, architects seemed to be one of the first professions to be hit.

So after returning from a stint of traveling to find things tougher than expected, I began to explore different possibilities, completing a TEFL course and looking at teaching abroad. 

South Korea really appealed to me because of the good pay and conditions, but also because my uncle had been stationed here as a Columban father in the 1970s and I had always been intrigued by his stories and pictures.

When I got here in the winter of 2009, the culture shock was pretty intense in the beginning, but as soon as spring came I ventured out to the mountains and a whole new world opened up to me.

I took a beginners’ course with Sanirang rock climbing school in Seoul, which caters to foreigners. By the end of the course I was hooked. I started hiking and rock climbing every week and met a wonderful group of climbers from all over the world.

I joined a local climbing gym, Kim Jong Heon Climbing Center in Anyang. My first day there was quite a humbling experience. Within 15 minutes of stepping through the door I found that I was very unfit, clumsy and about 10 kg too heavy, and that it would be a big project to turn me into a climber.

But there was hope: I was strong, had long arms and was extremely stubborn.

My initial attempts at climbing indoors were in complete contrast to the elegance that every other climber there seemed to possess. I have since learned that the vast majority of people start climbing in a similar fashion to me and that there are very few that are gifted from the start.

Every weekend we would go on trips to the best and most beautiful climbing areas in Korea. The mentoring system here is extraordinary. My coach and team have pushed me far beyond what I ever thought was possible.

My first major climb on natural ice was a 350-meter climb of Towangseong Ice Fall in Seoraksan National Park, the highest frozen waterfall in Asia. The first glimpse of it stopped me in my tracks. I had never seen such a mesmerizing sight. There is certainly no structure I have ever come across in my architectural background that could rival its celestial stature.

To be truthful, I was out of my depth on this climb, but I was lucky to have a group of experienced climbers with me. After 16 hours of wind chill and terror ― and a few childish tantrums on my behalf ― my team of seven climbers made it to the top and back down safely.

Ice Climbing World Cup

Toward the end of the ice climbing season in February 2012, the captain of my climbing team suggested I aim to compete for Ireland in this year’s Ice Climbing World Cup. Initially I took it all as a joke, but I guess as time passed I took it more seriously. There is something about living far from home that makes one try things that they normally wouldn’t.

In October I contacted Mountaineering Ireland about my proposal. They were somewhat surprised, but after seeing my training schedule, were extremely supportive. It would be a first for Ireland to have a competitor in the event.

After months of rigorous training, I represented Ireland in the Ice Climbing World Cup in Cheongsong, North Gyeongsang Province, in January.

I finished 25th out of 34. The nerves on the day were one of the hardest things to contend with, but the event was a fantastic experience for me and I got to meet outstanding climbers from all over the world who have inspired me to train harder and climb more.

Later in the season I entered national ice climbing championships in Cheongsong and Yeongdong, coming ninth both times.

I am not sure where climbing will take me but I know it is something I want to enjoy for a long time. I feel I have only scratched the surface in terms of understanding the sport but I am keen to gain experience in all the climbing disciplines.

Right now I am making the most of the fine weather but also really looking forward to another ice climbing season in Korea this year and hoping to build upon this past year.

I realize how vital a specific interest outside of work can be when living far from home. I would like to encourage anyone else out there who has any interest in the great outdoors to give climbing a go. Korea is really the perfect place for it. The mountains here are extraordinary and the indoor and outdoor training facilities are abundant. 

By Eimir McSwiggan

Eimir McSwiggan is an English teacher from Ireland and the first Irish woman to compete in the Ice Climbing World Cup. ― Ed.