Kuho opens Fashion Week with taste of Russia

Seoul Fashion Week S/S 2012 kicks off six-day run, packed with over 60 fashion shows


Dazzling prints of badges and medals reminiscent of the military outfits of Romonov Russia fluttered from chest to toe while the rest of the floor-length dress was imbued in florescent turquoise blue ― a familiar look for those who watched hexa by kuho’s 2012 S/S collection at New York Fashion Week last month.

Designer Jung Ku-ho experimented with the colors and patterns at the curtain raiser show at Seoul Fashion Week S/S 2012 held at SETEC in Daechi-dong, southern Seoul, on Monday, all the while keeping the cuts simple and almost even rigid to the point that they flattened out the models’ natural curves. Minimal, masculine silhouettes of slim tailored jackets and baggy Jodhpur pants displayed an impressive contrast with fringe details, bold colors and playful patterns inspired by the aesthetics of imperialist Russia.

“I am very proud to see how much the competence of designers participating in Seoul Fashion Week has improved and how the global perception on Korean fashion is picking up. I will be here together to enhance the position of Korean fashion,” said Jung before the show.

Including the unusual participation of national brands ― hexa by kuho and MVIO, both part of Cheil Industries ― there are several changes at SWF this season. 

hexa by kuho (Yonhap News)

Samsung D’light building in Seocho-dong was chosen as the venue for “Generation Next,” one of the three divisions of SFW which introduces 10 up-and-coming designers, instead of Kring in Samseong-dong which has hosted Generation Next since its inception.

At SETEC, a total of 27 top Korean designers are lined up to showcase their latest collections at “Seoul Collection” and 10 designers who are seeking business opportunities overseas at “Fashion Take-off.” Three foreign designer teams ― London-based Choi Eudon, Paris-based Rad Hourani and New York-based United Bamboo ― will showcase their collections on Tuesday.

Including Jung, most of the veteran designers were scheduled to showcase on the first day, including Park Youn-soo, Son Jung-wan, Moon Young-hee and Gee Chun-hee.

BIG PARK

Led by main models Reina and Gahee, members of girl group After School, designer Park Youn-soo introduced his color-and-pattern saturated 2012 S/S collection for his new line BIG PARK. Influenced by stylish girls spotted in neighborhoods all over the world, Park’s new line was launched only last month in London targeting younger customers.

The line was definitely more casual and sporty just like the bubbly attitude of sweaty models on the catwalk, but perhaps a bit lost in terms of theme. 

BIG PARK (Seoul Fashion Week)

The key feature ― handcraft patchworks of dragons and tigers reminiscent of Joseon Dynasty covering capes, skirts and jackets ― was easily forgotten as brilliant flower prints and black polka dots were added everywhere. The line was supposed to “celebrates the return of the Oegyujanggak uigwe from France,” according to the program note.

Designer Son Jung-wan’s show was composed of elegant, romantic and wearable garments as usual, with chiffon, silk and jersey as the main materials. Pastel-toned drapes of green, navy and cream variants effortlessly dropped and wavered as the Caucasian models strutted down the runway.

Meanwhile, SFW premiered its two-day run project, “Fashion Blossom in Seoul,” in which designer-aspirant university students showcase their creative collections.

Another notable addition to SFW is “W Beauty & Fashion Week.” Organized by the fashion magazine W, many cosmetics and hair product brands including Aveda, Benefit, Laura Mercier and Nars hold beauty shows and promotional events.

SFW S/S 2012 runs through Saturday. For more information, visit www.seoulfashionweek.org.

By Park Min-young (claire@heraldcorp.com)