Published : Jan. 16, 2015 - 19:42
I find it nearly impossible to escape from food. The subject pops up everywhere ― in advertisements, in unexpected places and in conversations. Forever tempted, always hungry, New Year’s resolutions supremely challenged.
Recently, even a predawn airport trip left me eager to cook (and eat): The taxicab driver spoke passionately of the food his Syrian family relishes daily. Dark and bitterly cold outside, the driver had me at “grilled breakfast sandwich.” My mouth watered and my brain raced to absorb everything he described. Sure as I was sitting there, I knew I’d be making his recipes.
First, the cheese. Fresh, unripened Syrian cheese. Never heard of it. Not like feta, he stressed ― much creamier and far less salty. I found several brands of Syrian white cheese at a nearby produce market that carries a good variety of Middle Eastern fare. I bought four brands (all simply labeled Syrian cheese) to taste and to understand. Indeed, these cheeses taste beautifully of sweet, rich milk with just a hint of salt. My favorite, a soft cheese packaged with a little brining liquid from Karoun Dairy in Sun Valley, California, uses whole milk and nonanimal rennet. (It is available from Amazon.) The more readily available Mexican queso fresco proves an adequate substitute, as does fresh mozzarella.
A crusty cheese breakfast sandwich can be adorned with avocado and tomato. (Tribune Content Agency)
Next up, a bread discourse. My Syrian breakfast tutor uses flat breads and hand-shaped pita from Middle Eastern bakeries occasionally; he prefers crusty French baguettes. I tested both super thin pitas and French bread ― we devoured everything.
On workdays, my new friend simply oils the inside of the baguette, tucks in slabs of the cheese, drizzles everything with more olive oil and a sprinkle of oregano. The whole thing gets crusty hot in his panini press. I improvised by using a hot nonstick griddle and a skillet to flatten the sandwiches as they crisped. No problem.
When there’s time, very thin seared steaks make their way inside the sandwich. Sliced ripe tomatoes in season. Use savory zataar seasoning when it’s available. Always the best olive oil and always eat it hot and crusty. Not in the car ― even if you drive for a living. These beauties deserve full attention.
We like our versions on leisurely Saturday mornings after a challenging workout. Serve the sandwiches with fresh juice and strong coffee. Add a pile of lightly dressed mixed greens alongside if you wish. Breakfast reinvented. 2015 tastes great already.
Crusty fresh cheese breakfast sandwiches● Prep: 10 minutes
● Cook: 5 minutes
● Makes: 3 sandwiches
● 230 g loaf par-baked French bread or 3 very thin pita breads
● Extra virgin olive oil
● Zataar spice blend or a combination of dried oregano, thyme and rosemary
● 170 g Syrian white cheese or Mexican queso fresco, patted dry, thinly sliced
● Optional add-ins: very thinly sliced ripe tomato, sliced avocado, sprigs of baby arugula or spinach
(Tribune Content Agency)